Fare, Issue 15 – Naples

Fare is a new magazine exploring city culture through food, history, and community.

Fare introduces its readers to a single city and lets its locals do the talking: taking you down backstreets and through forgotten histories, exploring neighbourhoods and local institutions, and doing more than just taste the food on offer. Fare connects armchair travelers with immersive and nuanced stories from cities around the world, and serves as a kind of roadmap for those who are ready to make the actual trip to see things for themselves.

In this issue:

In the shadow of Vesuvius, Naples hums with life. From the shores to the streets, a sensory feast unfolds where layers of history and culture are proudly served up – one plate at a time.

• Step into the seaside kitchen of Michelin-starred chef Marianna Vitale to make a frittata de maccheroni, her most beloved childhood dish.

• Venture out into the green hills of Campania to see mozzarella di bufala made fresh by hand at Il Casolare dairy.

• Visit Atelier Inès, the family villa of late Neapolitan sculptor Annibale Oste, which Vincenzo Oste and his partner Inès Sellami have transformed into an artist’s workshop and boutique hotel.

• Explore the rich past of Neapolitan theatre, from the opulent Teatro San Carlo to the small playhouses across the city and the theatrics that make their way into everyday interactions.

• Lunch at Osteria Donna Teresa, where one family has been serving up classic homestyle dishes – pasta e fagioli, pasta e patate, genovese, ragù – for over a hundred years.

• Kayak along the coast of Posillipo, where picturesque villas and secret coves hold stories of misdeeds and misfortune